I’ve noticed an increase in small distilleries creating their own versions of Malört over the past five or so years. It reminds me of the renaissance Fernet experienced 7 or 8 years ago. Malört is definitely an acquired taste—taking a shot of it feels like punishment—but if you enjoy bitter liquors, sipping some chilled Malört after a heavy meal might not be unpleasant.
I’d guess that bitterness is the flavor most people are least interested in exploring, and that makes sense. It doesn’t seem to have the same endorphin payoff as other tastes. It’s an interesting flavor, and I think you need to have an interest in digging into unusual flavors before diving into the world of bitter-forward spirits. I think it makes sense that the rise of better cocktails has led to spirits like Malört seeing growth.
Most of the alternative, new Fernets I've tried want to be "Branca, but more approachable", which takes away a lot of what makes Branca so interesting. I don't know if "Malort, but less bitter" is as marketable.
Fernet is so good. Probably a good entry point to bitters. It is so nice with Diet Coke.
If I like Amaro, but haven't been a fan of Fernet, is Malort worth a shot?
Besk has existed for a long time in Chicago, which I've heard referred to as "good Malort." It has a brighter, anise-forward flavor which puts it more in line with Italian amari.