I work at a company which has 11 engineers and competes with companies with 100s. The hiring process was a screening call with the CTO to not waste the prospective team's time, then a call with 2 of my prospective colleagues to gauge competence and cultural fit. Since then I have been involved in hiring most of the team I work with now. The CTO is one of the most competent engineers I have ever met and he designed this process. He also has very high EQ. One of the points I sell to prospective hires is him as a person to work with, as well as our team. He has also flatly denied people I suggested before and that's fine.
I have been here 5 years now and I'm working with the most competent team I have ever worked with. My take away from this is that hiring doesn't need to be commoditised and scale, it just needs to find good people and give them an opportunity to show you that you do or don't want to work with them.