I've been working on a project for a few months, and I had some of those initial pain points early on as well. I've actually found the codebase surprisingly approachable and have found the team to be very open to bugs and merging PR's. Many times I've created a bug report, and within a day, it's been fixed, or within a day I was able to track down the bug and open a PR to fix it.
Maybe it's just me, but I found the Ash (and ecosystem) codebase a lot more approachable than something like Rails.
The first few weeks on the project were tough, and the documentation challenges are certainly there, but they get better day by day.
After getting comfortable and accepting the "Ash" way, I've found my productivity to skyrocket when using Ash to build an Absinthe GraphQL api. Previously I'd have to build the context layer, then the resolvers, etc.
Now with Ash, I write my action, declare my query/mutation/subscription and get all the rest for free. I can't see myself going back to writing Elixir apps without Ash.