My only question is - is this tinker friendly? C is tinker friendly, it's not all about correctness and so on.
Not that I mind correctness, but I want to play with this and maybe do some minor hobby projects with limited cognitive load.
Otherwise I'd just do FreeRTOS, which is also a good option.
Yes and no, and the answer will depend a little bit on your background. It's Rust, and the learning curve around that still exists. The HAL does a very good job at papering over some annoying details, e.g. if you're working on STM32s you'll be able to get things working without having to dig into the monstrous clock trees and timer peripherals. I found one of the biggest learning curves to be dealing with shared mutable state; embassy offers lots of primitives and tools for dealing with this that are more approachable than you'd encounter with a vanilla embedded Rust project, but there's a little bit of a time investment to learn them and you'll find yourself reading a lot of example code.
Once you get the basics, though, it's very productive and I've found it surprisingly easy to write building blocks I can reuse across a wide range of hardware projects and MCUs!