It is wild that session encryption is not enabled by default on these chips. I feel like most vendors just slap a tpm on the board and think they are safe without actually configuring it properly. The article is right that physical access usually means game over anyway so it seems like a lot of effort for a small gain.
In many industries, once someone has physical access to a device, all bets are off. And when used correctly, TPMs can provide tons of value even when not encrypting the bus.
If I remember correctly it's up to the client program to set up the session, not something to do with the vendor's implementation. It's conceptually similar to how an HTTPS client performs a TLS handshake after opening a socket before it can work with plain HTTP content.