You can try to self-host. Neither Synapse nor Dendrite is in a good state for running a server. I tried Dendrite for a while and it was always playing catchup to Synapse, despite being the supposed successor, and is now not even under development? I can't even tell what's going on over there.

Anyway, my main experience of Matrix is "failed to decrypt message". It's... not great. I wish it were better.