We've switched to Jetbrains Youtrack, it doesn't have as many features, but turns out nobody was using most of them anyway. It's Jira + Confluence bundled together including SSO.
I enjoy youtrack for its simplicity, native markdown support, command pallette, and solid vcs integration. So much bloat and friction with jira.
We (~200 devs) migrated from Jira to Youtrack 10 years ago, and its functionality has been more than enough. Honestly, I don't remember anyone ever seriously complaining about it, aside from maybe a few nitpicks. A very solid product.