And yet the KL divergence after changing all that stuff remains remarkably similar between different models, regardless of the specific hyperparameters and block diagrams employed at pretraining time. Some choices are better, some worse, but they all succeed at the game of next-token prediction to a similar extent.
To me, that suggests that transformer pretraining creates some underlying structure or geometry that hasn't yet been fully appreciated, and that may be more reusable than people think.
Ultimately, I also doubt that the model weights are going to turn out to be all that important. Not compared to the toolchains as a whole.
That "underappreciated underlying structure or geometry" can be just an artifact of the same tokenization used with different models.
Tokenization breaks up collocations and creates new ones that are not always present in the original text as it was. Most probably, the first byte pair found by simple byte pair encoding algorithm in enwik9 will be two spaces next to each other. Is this a true collocation? BPE thinks so. Humans may disagree.
What does concern me here is that it is very hard to ablate tokenization artifacts.