I use firefox reader view for websites like this.

I liked it. It has character.

Had to zoom to 150% to make it bearable

It is targeted at tech literate people who obviously know about reader's mode, that they can load a custom css or not even load a css and set the font and size of their choice from their web client.

Agreed, this is kind of the perfect use case for AI. I can see the prompt now "using css, make this website readable and use a proper color scheme"