alt Hacker NewsQuery builders are a doddle to write, extremely trivial to debug, and generally far easier overall than having to shoehorn data into a structure that your ORM likes.
The problem is not that ORMs fail to expose every feature of a particular SQL database. The problem is that they encourage you to model your data in a way that is convenient for the ORM, rather than in a way that is correct for the domain.
Any sufficiently powerful ORM eventually has to provide escape hatches into SQL. At that point, the abstraction has failed: the ORM is no longer helping you understand the database, it is getting out of the way so you can use the database properly.
An ORM is a straitjacket. It pushes you toward sub-optimal structures, and those structures deny you access to the most powerful aspects of SQL: relational modelling, constraints, joins, aggregation, views, transactions, and set-based operations.
It seems like you are throwing away the baby with the bathwater. I don't think providing 90% of the structure you need is a failed abstraction. And it just doesn't follow that it is pushing you towards sub-optimal structures, not sure where this conclusion comes from. All ORMs I've seen have ways to describe relations between models, even polymorphic types, aggregates, eager loading (to avoid N+1) etc.