… and has a sufficiently long history that it became the name for a color as long ago as the 1880s. Pretty sure it’s the only drink that has a CSS standard color name derived from it (burgundy isn’t in the list).

(Now I want someone to come on and argue that papayawhip and chocolate are actually derived from colors of liqueurs)

You're hitting on the main point of the article. It has been historically niche (limited supply, specialized use, intense/complex flavor) and recently expanded in popularity to transcend that niche status.

Yeah you can buy it in pretty much every liquor store on earth, it even comes in those little single-slurp mini bar bottles, in tiny bottle stores in broke ass towns at the edge of the world.

"Craft" cocktails is itself a niche, and I would guess represents a pretty small portion of liquor sales.