...and self hosted models are raw milk.

Not a bad metaphor: mostly fine, arguably legitimate benefits [when you're lucky], potentially really bad.

The biggest place the metaphor breaks is that when you drink bad milk, the consequences are local.

Note: this is not an argument that oligopolies or the state should control or have sole access to AI. It is a reflection of that fact that we as a society have no good answer nor even any process towards one, about how to balance the competing goods and risks of widespread access to capable AI.