Machine learning is more like biology, physics or law than like CS or math.

In the software engineering world, we're accustomed to the reality that to do great work, all you need is a sharp mind and a cheap laptop. Better tools help, but aren't really a necessity. You could probably become a top-notch Linux kernel engineer with nothing but dedication and self-study, a $300 laptop and a shabby apartment with internet access.

You just can't really learn ML that way, just like you can't do it with banking, professional trading or medicine.