alt Hacker NewsEx-Googler here. I'm not sure there is one answer to your question.
The culture of your org is 100% dependent on where you are, and primarily flows from your Director. This is both good and bad.
The good: You can have islands of positive culture inside otherwise problematic organizations, provided the Director sets that positive culture and makes sure their managers and leaders help enforce it.
The bad: You can be one re-org away from that positive culture going away. That said, I experienced many higher-level re-orgs that people basically considered no-ops because our Director didn't change, and I know of orgs that have had good culture for over 10 years.
If you are considering a role in some part of Google (either as a new hire or an internal transfer), you should ask probing questions about the organization itself to try and understand its specific culture and how that culture is embraced by the people inside it.
> If you are considering a role in some part of Google (either as a new hire or an internal transfer), you should ask probing questions about the organization itself to try and understand its specific culture and how that culture is embraced by the people inside it.
A bit easier said than done, when there's a bad director no one is going to tell you in the interview. On the other hand they are unlikely to praise them either, so you can pay attention to the omission if your questions are specific enough.