Yes, you install the Google Play store via the GrapheneOS App Store. The OS comes with like 5 apps out of the box. The rest is up to you.
Biggest caveats that I've encountered: tap to pay via Google Wallet is a no go, Android Auto can be flaky, MDM managed work profiles don't work at the moment, and some apps that use the Google Play integrity API fail to validate and refuse to work (I've only encountered one app that fails, and plenty others that work.)
In general, I'm moving towards a de-Googled life and GrapheneOS is a great entrypoint towards that.
My end-run around Google's absurd unwillingness to certify GOS for Google Pay has been Garmin Pay, which has worked virtually everywhere I've ever tried it.
I'm hopeful that an OEM Motorola device will get certified for Google Pay.
Tap to pay is mostly NFC? So is there an alternative app?
> MDM managed work profiles
Do you mean actual employer-spyware MDM work profiles? I suppose I never expected those to work.
Or do you mean things like Shelter, which uses work profiles and which I use to quarantine certain less-trusted apps?